Lasserre le Haut May 5 (betzeen Condom and Eauze)

It seems like a long time since I wrote from Moissac on Saturday. It is now Wednesday night and we (Steven, Lisa and I) are in this wildly decorated gite and chambre d'hote which looks like something out of a Fellini movie -- big on style but short on amenitites although there is a laptop here I can use for internet. The only showers are in other people's bedrooms and there are 2 toilets downstairs off the laundry room 1 and a half flights dozn from the big dorm room upstairs. There has been rain ever since Saturday, and yesterday was the worst 25 km in freezing blowing rain allost nonstop. The muddy trails can be a real challenge. It was almost like skiing going down one of the hills this afternoon. I had lunch in the city of Condom, in the square by a huge cathedral with an intircate carved stone choir. We went out of our way to go to La Romieu yesterday where there was a beautiful botanical garden and a ruined cloister and church, but it was raining so hard; we saw nothing; and slept again in an unheated room. On Monday we stayed at an old farm and were the only guests. This time we were in an unheated shed lit by a flourescent light that ,ad a loud buzz, or by tiny lamps with about the power of night lights. Both toilet and shower were in another shed out in the farmyard. We were feeling quite sorry for our selves but then went into the 300 year old famhouse kitchen for supper. The couple was delightful, real hard-working farm folks with a house full of books, and a roaring fire in an ancient fireplace that heats water and other rooms in the house. We hung our wet clothes over chairs by the fire and put our boots to dry and were served what was perhaps the best meal of the trip so far; including a sausage cooked on the coals, tomato soup, lovely tiny lentils and a tasty carrot salad, all with conversations about farming. This is the day I learned of the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. No real news; but it sounds terrible. It is supposed to rain again tomorrow: Today the rain has been more of a drizzle. And less wind. I am now worried that we wonùt be able to go over the pass in the Pyrenees. Two weeks from today I should be done walking.

Moissac May 1, 2010

Finally a bit of sun late this afternoon afternoon after 2 days of walking in mud and rain.  Yesterday it was something like 27-28 km slogging up and down hills on many wet and muddy paths.  I really could barely move by the time I found our gite.  Legs and feet ached much of the night, although I slept like a rock. No problem sleeping.  It was cold and I was wrapped in sleeping sack and blankets when our Swiss, Luxembourg and French friends came over from their elegant chambre d'hote next door to see how we were faring in our considerably less luxurious habitation of 8 bunks in a space with a makeshift kitchen and a big table. The minute they left I was out like a light -- I think we all were, and didn't wake up until late, nearly 8 in the morning, only to find more rain coming down, and boots and clothes left outside.

  My socks covered my boots, so they were not too terribly wet.  We found a portable heater which dried them quite well, but Steven's boots had water standing in them, which we poured out.  It was a short walk of only about 12.5 km today, but Lisa took a wrong turn, Steven forgot his poles and had to go back, and when I got to Moissac it was noon and although the Saturday market was winding down, everything else was closed and I spent nearly an hour trying to find the gite, which turned out to be lovely, but I was sent in different directions by different people then once on the right track encountered the Swiss group and then Lisa and Steven came down a stairs in the distance together and we found our way here at last.

There is a wonderful old abbey here and a cloister supposed to be one of the most beautiful in the world.  Lisa; Steven and I spent considerable time looking at the carvings and the beautiful 14th and 15th century statues in the church.  Later I walked to the Napoleon bridge over the Tarn, which is really full of water right now.  We had a lovely dinner here at the Ultreia  Gite with people from many countries and had good-bye champagne with Michel who takes the train to Paris tomorrow.

An amazing moment yesterday was arriving at the end of a very steep descent and looking across a field of yellow flowers to see the medieval city of Lauzerte on a cliff.  I felt it was emblematic of the human condition, with boots thick with mud and eyes on a beautiful city in the sky.  When I crossed the modern traffic circle on the outskirts below the city, I felt like an alien from another century, and when I finally entered the walled city after jousting with an enormous beer truck to get access to the gate, I felt like I belonged there, but the truck and the cars parked outside the walls did not.

Lauzerte

Montcuq April 11

Internet for two days in a row, but I am writing quickly as it is getting late and Steven wants to get on in a bit: It was a bit cooler today and rain may be coming. I just realized that my laundry is still on the line. Washing one's clothes by hand is the nightly lot of the pilgrim, as we have only 1 change of clothes and days are often hot and sweaty. The first thing one does upon arriving for the night is to take a shower and wash clothes in a sink and then hang them out. A couple of nights ago everything dried quickly in the warm afternoon sun, but today is stickier.

Last night there was a beautiful full moon very orange at its rising over Trigodina, where we slept in a converted barn.  The two Swiss women, Cornelia and Branka, and Pierre from Luxembourg and Michel from Paris were also there.  We may meet them again tomorrow night, but for sure in Sat. night in Moissac.

Internet tonight again in Montcuq.  One more night before Moissac. Walking all these miles with a backpack is hard on the feet, which start to ache after 4-5 hours. Tonight I said to Steven and Lisa that my kids should be here. We made soup tonight with tons of vegetables, but in very small cramped kitchen with sink backing up. We were using Lisa's Swiss army knife to cut the veggies, but finally were able to borrow two sharp knives from the main kitchen. Today was a short day of only about18-19 km. Tomorrow will be longer.

 
We stopped in a bar/cafe for drinks, ate our picnic lunch there, and afterwards I pulled out my blanket and lay down on the grass. All these old folks were playing cards and other games on picnic tables nearby.  Some were bowling.  It was peaceful and idyllic in this medieval town.  A thirteenth century tower is closed except for July and August.  Today I was sure I was lost and climbed a hill to look for the trail, but there was onlyione possible way to go.  Several times I have gone a km or so in a wrong direction.

On the road above Cahors April 28

We devoured delicious fresh strawberries in the market in Cahors.

I am still walking with Steven and Lisa:  We stayed in a very nice place last night; tonight we still have a few km to go.  My legs and feet hurt at the end of a long day, but I am doing better than I thought I would.  Mornings start out good, but by afternoon I am feeling the pounding.  We spent about 4 hours in Cahors, a fascinating city with ancient Roman remains and medieval cathedral, ransacked by future Henry IV of England, so much destroyed.  Also a wondeful fortified bridge.  We bought food in the market, so our packs are very heavy this hot afternoon -- so hot the tar is melting on the road and salty sweat is running into my eyes.

Famous fortified bridge at Cahors (Pont Valentre)

Very little internet, but all is well.  Time to move on.

Figeac: 24 April 2010

Internet is far between here. I am doing great. I connected with two 26 year olds, Lisa from Germany and Steven from Belgium and have been traveling with them and sharing rooms for past 3 nights. It is nice to have the company of other foreigners who can speak both English and French.  We have been walking about 20-26 km per day.  Finding food can be difficult.  We had a lovely meal at a chambre d'hote atwo nights ago with a delightful couple, and we were the only guests.

In Noailhac with Simone and Michel Falip, Chambres d'Hotes de Montbigoux

We have also had some wonderful meals cooked together with others staying in the gites.  Every day is different and interesting.  Villages are very small, usually old, and very scenic.  Monique and René who befriended me, we said good-bye to in Golinhac as Monique had to slow down for blisters.  I also was sorry to say good bye to Tristan and Corrine a week ago.

Rene and Monique

Corinne and Tristan

Rain yesterday for the first time for several hours in the morning.

I am holding up well. I am in Figeac tonight staying in a monastery, so we have been exploring the town this Saturday afternoon.  Weather has turned warm.

Exploring Figeac: Steven, Lisa, and Sam

I think of friends and family often along the way, especially when I am not worrying that I am lost or when I am not trying to think of words for things in French.  Figeac is about one third of the way to the Pyrenees I think, and the trail flattens out a bit after this.  Today's walking was beautiful over green fields and flowers, on a few muddy trails and one long hot stretch along a road.  Cars have become like noxious noisy dangerous beasts.

Keep writing and thanks for your comments.

Lot Valley April 20

Thanks to all who have written and also to those who have not.

Twisted Steeple in Sainte Come d'Olt from Gite room over drying laundry and shoes

Walking is going very well. Strenuous sometimes. Yesterday was 24 km. I am on River Lot at Espalion this Morning and internet is 2 Euro per 15 min. No contact with anyone since Saturday.  So I will not write much here. Beautiful places; but quite remote. This is by far the biggest town since Le Puy one week ago. Down lower now after days in snow.  Blossoming trees and wildflowers. Incredibly beautiful scenery.  I spent last night in old village of Sainte Come d'Olt.  I accidentally left my sleeping sack behind a few days ago, but with help of René and Monique a taxi service returned it to me in Aubrac.  Communication continues to be a problem, but I have also met Lisa from, Berlin who speaks English as well as French and German.

Linnea and Lisa, women in pink.

I tried to access my UNM mail, but it is taking too long, so please write only gmail to me.

April 17 Saturday Aumont d'Aubrac

All goes well.  Not much mail from anyone.  There was 4 inches of snow yesterday morning at Domaine du Sauvage  --  a beautiful wild place in big old stone farm buildings that reminded me of Wuthering Heights.  I have met friendly helpful people; but no one who speaks more than a few words of English, so c'est difficile.  Sometimes I get lost en route and there is no one to ask for help.  I am at internet in toursit office this morning and have another 10 or 12 km to go.  I have been walking with Corinne and Tristan and Monique et René, but since I have stopped here to check internet? I will have lost them until tonight when we will all be at the same place.

Snowy morning at La Domaine du Sauvage

Tristan and Corinne and another French couple at St. Roch Chapel

I need to buy pain and fruit because there will be no stores open -- where there are stores -- for perhaps 2 days -- closed Sunday and Monday.

Thanks to all of you for prayers and energy you are sending my way.  I have many thoughts as I walk of friends and family.