Voie d’Arles Day 6: L’Isle de Noe to Saint Christaud

Voie d’Arles Day 6

L’Isle De Noe to La Barraque Saint-Christaud

15.4 miles. 21 km

34, 063 steps

We had an absolutely beautiful day of walking, beginning with an English breakfast (!) from our hostess Edna Moody, an English transplant to the beautiful little village of L’Isle-de-Noe, who took very good care of us indeed, and bid us farewell from the door.

We crossed a bridge, encountered some white horses grazing in a field, and soon turned off onto a woodland path that climbed steadily upward.

In a little over 2 hours we reached the lovely village of Montesquiou, where I snapped pictures of the buildings and flowers as we descended to the town center.  We had two petit cafes at the bar, then headed down to an epicerie, where we had a cheese and butter sandwich made, picked up a bottle of water, two apples, a large bar of dark chocolate, some potato chips and one pain au chocolate.  We stowed away everything but the juice and croissant, which we took to a picnic table in a pretty park. 

We also figured out that my phone miles were adding about 20% to the actual distance, at least based on the distance to Montisquiou this morning.

We had to detour leaving town because a stone arch was being repaired—so after climbing up to the church, very large with an impressive baroque interior, we backtracked to the little park, briefly meeting Alain, who was just arriving.  As we climbed the hills out of town the church bells rang.  It was noon.

More wooded paths led us to Poulybon, which offered lodging at a campground just before town.  We had quite a long open flat area to cross.  Kent figured out how to attach my poles to the back of my pack when I didn’t need them, and I put on my bluetooth neck loop which streamed music from my phone to my hearing aids.  I then walked along to Handel’s Watermusic, Beethoven’s Appassionata, Blue Moon of Kentucky and more.  No more bird songs for awhile.  We continued to the village center, which boasted some office buildings and a large church with an impressive arch.  We saw no one other than the young mailwoman who we’d encountered twice before as we had been in her way as she was reversing her yellow van at the ends of cul de sacs that us into woods paths.

We ate our sandwich, potato chips, and some chocolate at a picnic table near the Mairie, enjoying the weight off our feet for awhile.  

Upon leaving Poulybon we had a very steep descent through woods.  I was glad to use my poles again.  A few signs were a bit confusing, so after yesterday’s mishap, we kept checked the map carefully.

For once, we came upon the sign for tonight’s lodging in a 14th century farmhouse, owned by Joanna, originally Swiss, who has a garden and small farm, and has lived here for 30 years.  

Joanna gave us a warm welcome, and we learned much about her very much back-to-to-the-earth way of life.  We ate a delicious flower- filled salad from her garden and a delicious omelet filled with green asparagus and green onions and garden herbs.  We drank delicious water from her spring.  She had electricity from solar panels, and a composting toilet, yet we had plenty of hot water for showers.  We were the only pilgrims there in spacious rooms with old beams in the ceilings and cool tile floors underfoot.  We ate in a sun-warmed little glass veranda off her kitchen.

She had to go away that evening, and her WiFi was turned off, and I could get no cell service through the stone walls, so I sat in the sun porch long after the sun went down to access email and book a room for the next night in Marciac.  We thought we’d treat ourselves to a hotel to celebrate our 7th wedding anniversary tomorrow.  Only 11 km to Marciac.  We won’t leave ad early. It should be an easy day!